The Ocean – cleanse my soul

Forgive me father. It has been almost a year since my last immersion.

You see I broke my paddleboard last summer. It took a month or two to get it to the repair shop and  get it fixed. Then shoulder surgery. Then life. Yes, those are all excuses. Even worse I started doubting. Though I purchased my board off of Craigslist knowing it was a stable, wide, entry level situation, I coveted better.

Finally had to just make it happen. Drove over around 8:45am. Traffic over the hill was already building but not nasty. Grabbed another board, drove around a local beach town looking for parking. Drove back to my buddy’s house and put in there. 

Wading out through the shore break was easy, but could I stand? Lots of wind chop coupled with boat wakes from the harbor inlet. I stood. I paddled. It was like riding a bike again.

Only the pavement was coming at us from all angles and varying speeds. Before I was pitched into the 55deg water I took it upon myself to jump in. It’s always best to get baptised on your terms.

We paddled out, got tossed around, fell off, got back on. When you have an engine you forget that the world is incredibly random, and you control nothing.

No surfing today. Too much of a fight just to cruise out a mile or so and then get back. Then we did a loop in the harbor. Nothing makes flat water feel incredibly flat like slogging through a potato patch.

I was wet. I was salty.

I was happy.

Damn, how I love the ocean. Damn how the ocean heals the soul.

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